LFW F/W 2012: Mulberry

I'm just going to put it out there immediately- Mulberry LFW show was a huge disappointment for me. It is impossible for me to recollect a collection that I have disliked since Emma Hill took the helm of Creative Director in 2008, debuting her first collection in S/S 2009. She re-ignited the fires of creativity in the previously lagging British fashion house, injecting a much needed dose of youth and femininity. However, she seems to have forgotten the brand's roots in the latest collection.

Heavily sports- wear orientated this collection seems to represent a step back rather than a step forward. Gone are the red carpet worthy gowns, feminine frocks and timeless shapes. Instead in their place we have masculine cut coats in a degree of horrific knits and furs, unflattering dresses which were vaguely reminiscent of Madonna's conical 80s bra and boots that look like they took their inspiration from Jennifer Lopez's 90s Jenny 'From the Block' Timberland inspired treads. The color scheme was abhorrent and the accessories were a disaster.

Mulberry's iconic bags were subject to a failed attempt at ironic re-invention. Gone were the post man's locks and leather straps and in their place was a lacquered leather bearing the image of the bag's we have come to love. It was vaguely reminiscent of Chanel's, almost seasonal, attempts to create handbags which appeal to the lowest common denominator of clientele- only unlike Chanel the Mulberry bags in question were featured prominently on the catwalk, rather than abashedly being reserved for commercial and non- advertising purposes. 

The knit bags were also vaguely reminiscent of Chanel. Granted I hate the Chanel knitted bags but I find them particularly abhorrent in the case of Mulberry. Mulberry is a timeless British brand known for it's bags which last the test of time- both in style and in substance. That's the great thing about any of their bags. They work hard for you, the look better with age and they withstand the elements. That's what a bag should do in the British context- it needs to be ready and willing to withstand London and all of its resulting factors: the rain, the snow, the dirt, the drunken women carrying it, getting placed on tube seats, getting plopped onto the pavement while it's owner searches for a cigarette etc.

There was also the use of fur which was highly criticized. I have no problem with fur for fashion, what I do have a problem with is when any textile is used in an ugly an unappealing way. The use of fur in the show was ancillary to the theme which ran through it, sportswear. The fur seemed used only to bear reference to the monsters flanking the catwalk. The garments it was used in were unattractive and unpleasant. 

Finally, I have come to love Emma Hill for her use of dogs on the catwalk and particularly her unique interest in incorporating Dog Fashion into her lines. However, even the dog clothes were a disaster. 

All in all I was thoroughly disappointed and won't be looking forward to next winter, in regards to what Mulberry has to offer, in the slightest.

However, feel free to judge for yourselves I have picked what I considered most palatable from the collection below... Now excuse me while I go throw up my total contempt.

Here are the accessories....

And the clothes....

Fun and fantasy with Mulberry

How can you not adore Mulberry?!

The fun loving spirit of Creative Director Emma Hill just transcends into every piece (speaking of, get excited for me to talk about this week's Runway Show!!!!!) and into the tiny details. How they decorate the store and the seasonal themes whether birds, dolls.... or apparently monsters.

Check out Emma Hill with Mulberry's London Fashion Week monster below and check out more fun Mulberry stuff here!

Mulberry on a chair- just don't care

I don't know why but for some reason I find this image infinitely relaxing. 

Perhaps it's a result of the composition the plush chair, the wicker chair in the background, fresh flowers and a very cool mirror all serve to remind me of what it's like to live in a real house rather than out of a (alright, lets be honest- it's definitely far more than one) suitcase. 

I think I might miss the idea of home today, even though I know I don't miss the place.

One more thing thing! The Mulberry Clarendon Coat- YUM! vs. the more feasible option- the Hobbs

I am slightly concerned that the buttons might be ever so slightly too large BUT I tried it on and I luuuurved it but I am still concerned about the buttons; regardless though how beautiful. How unbelievably beautiful.

However, as the Mulberry coat clocks in at £895 and I am now somewhat impoverished I am trying to transfer that love onto this glorious piece from Hobbs. It is called the 'Unlimited Crepe Bow Coat' and clocks in at a more affordable £299. It also comes with an adorable removable knitted collar (for those of us who feel naked without something a little extra around their necks- you know what I'm talking about my fellow pashmina lovers). Available in black and a 'russet red' (which to be honest is happily a bit more orange in my opinion, very on trend- think Burberry Prorsum fall) this is a beauty.

Wallet on a chain envy

So I REALLY wanted Chanel's black or red wallet on a chain (yes, I realize it might have been ever so slightly stupid to quit Chanel.....) HOWEVER as I am now impoverished £600+ seems slightly excessive. So here is my new wish.... the Mulberry wallet on a chain. Granted the color isn't as versatile BUT it is pretty cool and perhaps more importantly it clocks in at a reasonable £395. It also comes in a pebbled purple leather and a red suede (love the red but obviously, as you should all know, I hate suede with a massive passion- it is just too delicate for life in London.... or anywhere wet, dirty or dusty to be fair).

My favorite fall fashions

So here are my FAVORITE designers and my favorite styles from their fall shows, in alphabetical order of course because I didn't want to be overly discerning. 

Enjoy, I do... indeed.

 Check it out! Alexander McQueen I have to say I lurved the whole show, Sara Burton= genius. This look in particular though amazing. Ruffles, sparkle I mean all she had to do was throw in my little pony and the eight year old version of myself would have been ALL over this. But seriously, yum.

 Christopher Bailey, oh why do I adore you so. SUCH a genius. Single handedly made me love Burberry Prorsum all over again. This coat. Well fingers crossed I will be rocking this, this fall (if I can stop blowing all my cash on dresses and shoes, why oh why are they soooo irresistible?! The whole show was amazing though. Such great outerwear. All so beautiful and practical. There are a lot of shows that I look at and I can't imagine how I would translate the major pieces into my everyday life but this show was NOT one of those. Which is nice. It's nice that a designer remembers that he's designing for women not A woman or A mannequin but women. 

So I love the Chloe girl. I want to be her. I covet her wardrobe, her poise, her essence and this fall Hannah MacGibbon did not disappoint. The Chloe girl, or woman, is still someone to aspire to. I just love the delicacy of the dress in contrast to the knitted outerwear but at the same time complimented by the purity of the white and the femininity of the design. I think this look perfectly encapsulated the essentially female characteristic of the Chloe girl. 

 Alright soooo as unsavory as John Galliano might be at the moment. Lets not mince words. The man is about as viable to society as bread pudding and laxatives to a celiac sufferer BUT moving past his love of plastic surgery (I won't lie on that point I don't really fault him), his extreme personal dress sense (got to say I don't love the hair- won't lie) and the racism (there is a time and a place for insulting French people but NEVER Jews and NEVER Hitler) he is sadly one of the most talented designers the world (in my humble opinion) has ever seen and I just love these pieces, all of them. The knit, the hues, the complimentary colors, the dashes of color- THE SHOES (Dior makes my all time FAVORITE heels, so comfy), It's perfection. Sadly, I just can't envision Dior without him. 

 Oh Diane. You little royal genius you. Stunning. Red appears to be THE color for fall (although don't shed a tear, my beloved purple is still going strong as is that gorgeous cobalt blue that we have been seeing; however, red is definitely the color this season). I adore this coat. Makes me feel better for not purchasing her gorg spring coats this summer. I also love how she mixes up the reds, genius from Diane von Furstenburg- as always.

 I feel like I need to somehow moan here (please envision a throaty moan of even just the beginning of Meg Ryan's diner scene from when Harry Met Sally) because Peter Dundas is just sex on legs and resultantly the creations he spawns simple ooze sex from every thread. The clothes are so 70s but yet so current and so sensual. I have to say even the man himself is a hottie, I won't lie. It's hard to tell what I covet more- him, his clothes OR both equally. Emillio Pucci is back people and with a vengeance. 

 So the Scarlett Lady strikes again. This time Daniella Hilleyal of Issa is the culprit. I adore this jacket. I adore the hat and the choice of tights is fabulously different. All it's missing is a tanned Kate Middleton to wear it to the races or another event. Truly a piece fit for a princess.

 Jill Stuart showing us that it doesn't matter what the season- she is a true genius of proportion. I love the contrast of the colors and cuts of the two pieces and the boots, somehow they go. I don't understand why, but I like it. Another interesting take on the trend of red and how to accessorize it. A good lesson beyond being a deliciously fresh look. 

 So my favorite dynamic duo, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig of Marchesa, are at it again. Bringing us another ethereally beautiful gown. Yummers!

 Alright so if you didn't already know... I am a HUGE HUGE HUGE fan of Mulberry. Not to make myself impartial but I have to say that if I got to pick one collection that I could have every season or any season it would be Mulberry. Without looking, without researching- that would be my answer. Because it doesn't matter what she's doing Emma Hill does it right. The line is well tailored, young (but not overly young) and dreadfully dreadfully cool. Plus EVERYTHING is on point. The outerwear if superb, the suiting, knitwear and evening wear is to die for, the accessories are renowned and the dog wear is my favorite. I love how since introducing dog wear to the brand (through making it a standard part of the line) they have not only incorporated dogs on the catwalk (adorable!) but they've taken the opportunity to show how you can dress down any look. For an example how we are all cool enough to rock an evening dress to walk the dog. 

 Bringing some Eastern zest to this collection we've got Naeem Khan showing us just how well he does evening wear (answer: very well).  

 I love Oscar de la Renta and I love this combination, including the shoes. Fabulous. So lady like- as always. I love the incorporation of fur. 

 As usual Preen's  knitwear rocks my socks off (a little knit wear pun- love it). So gorgeous, so gorgeous. 

 Alright so I always follow Alice Temperley's shows because although I don't love her stuff at the moment (I won't deny it, I would be hard pressed to pick out more than one item from any of her shows... even as gifts) I see a lot of potential in her and I see Temperley London as having the capability of becoming a fabulous brand... if she stops being so kitschy and gimmicky with her pieces. This though, this piece I love. I think this shows the potential of what could come.

 And again here we go. Red is the color of the season. Amy Smilovic has done a fabulous job in building this brand. Tibi's clothes are vibrant, wearable, fresh and (importantly!) affordable. 

I love the flowing femininity of the dresses of this season. They evoke an ethereal seventies vibe that it both vintage and modern. Valentino proves that they still make beautiful women's clothing. Cut well and feminine although with a new modern edge.

Mulberry and Dogs: Two of my favorite things

I'm so excited by these images I don't even know what could make me happier. Perhaps if Mulberry could mate with a dog.....

I won't lie the purple outfit with the scarf which matches the angora dog sweater is my favorite. Probably because Wednesday (my adorable puppy!) and I have the set. Get ready for pictures of us come fall parading around in it!