I'm just going to put it out there immediately- Mulberry LFW show was a huge disappointment for me. It is impossible for me to recollect a collection that I have disliked since Emma Hill took the helm of Creative Director in 2008, debuting her first collection in S/S 2009. She re-ignited the fires of creativity in the previously lagging British fashion house, injecting a much needed dose of youth and femininity. However, she seems to have forgotten the brand's roots in the latest collection.
Heavily sports- wear orientated this collection seems to represent a step back rather than a step forward. Gone are the red carpet worthy gowns, feminine frocks and timeless shapes. Instead in their place we have masculine cut coats in a degree of horrific knits and furs, unflattering dresses which were vaguely reminiscent of Madonna's conical 80s bra and boots that look like they took their inspiration from Jennifer Lopez's 90s Jenny 'From the Block' Timberland inspired treads. The color scheme was abhorrent and the accessories were a disaster.
Mulberry's iconic bags were subject to a failed attempt at ironic re-invention. Gone were the post man's locks and leather straps and in their place was a lacquered leather bearing the image of the bag's we have come to love. It was vaguely reminiscent of Chanel's, almost seasonal, attempts to create handbags which appeal to the lowest common denominator of clientele- only unlike Chanel the Mulberry bags in question were featured prominently on the catwalk, rather than abashedly being reserved for commercial and non- advertising purposes.
The knit bags were also vaguely reminiscent of Chanel. Granted I hate the Chanel knitted bags but I find them particularly abhorrent in the case of Mulberry. Mulberry is a timeless British brand known for it's bags which last the test of time- both in style and in substance. That's the great thing about any of their bags. They work hard for you, the look better with age and they withstand the elements. That's what a bag should do in the British context- it needs to be ready and willing to withstand London and all of its resulting factors: the rain, the snow, the dirt, the drunken women carrying it, getting placed on tube seats, getting plopped onto the pavement while it's owner searches for a cigarette etc.
There was also the use of fur which was highly criticized. I have no problem with fur for fashion, what I do have a problem with is when any textile is used in an ugly an unappealing way. The use of fur in the show was ancillary to the theme which ran through it, sportswear. The fur seemed used only to bear reference to the monsters flanking the catwalk. The garments it was used in were unattractive and unpleasant.
Finally, I have come to love Emma Hill for her use of dogs on the catwalk and particularly her unique interest in incorporating Dog Fashion into her lines. However, even the dog clothes were a disaster.
All in all I was thoroughly disappointed and won't be looking forward to next winter, in regards to what Mulberry has to offer, in the slightest.
However, feel free to judge for yourselves I have picked what I considered most palatable from the collection below... Now excuse me while I go throw up my total contempt.
Here are the accessories....
And the clothes....
